Today’s post is the last installment on how to take care of naturally curly hair and we are going to cover super curly haircuts for naturally curly hair.
In the first post, I shared some of the tools you need for caring for your curly hair, along with grocery store products that work well for curly hair
The second post was all about how to style your hair.
First, let me just say that I’ve probably seen many different hair stylists and tried to achieve a cut that was compatible with my long curly hair. I’ve had two stylists who cut my hair just right and all the others left me with a similar problem: Triangle Shaped Hair.
What is Triangle Hair?
Triangle Hair speaks to the shape of your hair when the layers are not significant enough to take the bulk of the weight off towards the bottom of your length.
This issue happens with straight hair too, but it is usually not as pronounced unless hair the straight hair is very thick or the hair is not straightened with a flat iron.
With naturally curly hair, Triangle Hair is far more prevalent in my experience. There are two reasons why I think this happens more with curly hair:
- A misconception that your curly hair needs to have the weight of your hair to tame your curls and be cut all one length.
- Natural curls will flair out some at the ends as the curls get looser from flow and movement.
Though many stylists are well-meaning. Keeping long layers (or no layers in some cases) is the biggest mistake you can make if you want a more tapered look for your curls.
The reality is you want to lighten your hair up. Here we are in the year 2023 and so many hair stylists now get the need for layers for curly hair.
How to Avoice Triangle Hair
In order to avoid triangle hair, need to get layers cut in your hair but long layers won’t do. You must insist that you want SHORT layers. In fact, I think I had long layers in this photo.
If you are going for this look of mine above, I don’t want to sway you otherwise. But if you aren’t, you must insist upon short layers.
It doesn’t really matter if you have medium or longer curly hair, my experience is that haircuts for naturally curly hair must have short layers.
I’ve had stylists TRY to give me short layers but I still got long layers.
Back when I originally posted this, it really was a challenge to get a stylist to truly give me short layers. Maybe that has changed due to social media, Curly Girl, and more understanding of curly hair.
Basic Haircut Instructions
I wish I would have captured my curly hair layers before and after when I first had my hair cut properly. Through a quick Google search, you’ll see for yourself the difference short layers make. My stylist up in Rapid City sent me these instructions for the next person who cuts my hair and I plan on quoting her exactly as follows:
“Increase layer and let the bottom drop out. Slide cutting from the top down to take out the bulk, or you can thin with shears. Top layer should be 6-7 inches long. Frame face.”
Those were her instructions on how to talk to a stylist about a long curly haircut.
If you look at the top photo (the non-triangular hair one) you’ll see that I have short layers. This is really what you want if you want to have long curly hair and be able to wear it down.
So those are the basic instructions for haircuts for curly hair.
Key Takeaway: You have to have short layers, which will lighten the weight and enhance your curls.
I’d love to hear if you have some product you love to use for your hair or if you have a tip you’d like to add, please comment below.
*UPDATE #1* I had a stylist in Fort Walton Beach, FL who did an amazing job of cutting my hair. She cut it dry and have me the short layers I need. She also said someone with naturally curly hair should NEVER have their hair thinned with thinning sheers.
I live in Augusta Georgia, I have thin natural curly hair….can anyone recommend a hairdresser that REALLY understands how cut my hair….frustrated!
looking for someone for cutting & coloring thick curly hair in phoenix scottsdale. i have been letting hair grow and have shoulder length triangle head!
Try http://www.mydevacurl.com/curly_stylist_finder
I had my first Deva Cut in October…sadly, my length was massacred, but it needed it. Severe triangle head and bad layers, etc. My curls have never looked so good since then and I’m starting to get that length back. Best of luck!
You have NO idea how excited I was to find this via Google! I live about 2.5 hours south of Rapid in a small, rural area, and have been scared about my next hair cut. I just finally got the best curl cut of my life last October (while on my honeymoon 6 hours away) and don’t want to go to anyone in the area and get the traditional “straight cut” I’ve had for 27 years. Just getting my layers fixed and my hair amazing, and then the threat of having to return to the same routine broke my heart. Knowing there’s someone who understands curls that is so “close” is a lifesaver!
So glad you found the blog Abby! Shayla is very good and I think you’ll love her!
Do you have a recommendation on how long you should get trims for curly hair? I have full blown, type 3 Botticelli curls and used to be able to go about 8 weeks before the ends were toast. I started using JessiCurl products and so far it’s been 6 months and I’m just starting to notice a few dry, split ends. Was kind of thinking of getting a trim in March…any personal preference on how long you can go to get the maximum growth out of your hair without losing quality? 🙂
I’ve been told to NOT have a stylist take thinning shears to my curly hair it ruins my hair for the next hair cut and can cause split ends. This was what my hairdresser that I’ve had for the last 7 years told me. It must be true for my hair because it hasn’t seen thin shears in 8 years and it’s growing like a weed. I’m going to try talking my hairdresser in to short layers she is stuck in that long layers makes the curls look better if it’s long and a round shape makes short hair styles for curly hair look better, the short round shape makes it look like helmet curl head. Ugh!
So true! Good luck Decloma! I hope it goes well for you…would love to hear an update!
I’m hoping someone will happen to see this and answer my question. Whenever I cut my hair above my shoulders it poofs up. I would really love a pixie cut or long bob, can I get layers with these cuts? How would I be able to maintain these cuts and not have an afro or triangle hair if I cannot have layers?
Since I’m not a hair-stylist, I’m hoping someone else can answer your question. Anyone?
Mine isn’t so thick, but I have had shorter styles with layers and it works perfectly. Just remember that if you want it to fall to your shoulders, you probably need it cut (when straight) to a couple inches longer than your shoulders and it will curl up to that length. I lose a good 6 inches to my curl!
As a retired hair stylist who also has naturally wavy/nappy/curly hair depending on humidity level that day, I must say I really sympathize with so many of these ladies who yearn for a stylish cut from an intuitive, or at least understanding, hair stylist.
But I especially want to address Jillian’s question: Yes, you can have layers – in fact, WILL have layers in both Pixie or Bob styles. Both styles have some degree of layering, in fact, I would say that the Pixie is nothing BUT layers! Which gives it that tousled, impish look. A nice rounded Bob will have subtle layers in it that don’t show in the final style.
The problem, as I see it, having had quality training by hands-on teachers and oodles of continuing education over those past decades, is that lots of newer stylists don’t seem to be taught how to layer very well, nor made to understand that they are actually SCULPTING a moving, pliable medium that grows. (Your hair)
With Jillian’s hair, I suspect her hair is fine (thin, delicate hair shafts) and when it was cut, it may have been too drippy wet. Consequently, when it dried, and if it didn’t have enough moisturizing product on it…Boingg! It contracted up and out.
Keep in mind, besides many types of curly hair, we also need to know whether each of our hair shafts is extra fine, fine, medium, medium-course, or course! This is called our hair’s TEXTURE, and it’s very important in the care and feeding, and ultimately the success of our hairstyle, to understand what hair texture WE own.
For a reference point, since she took such good photos of her hair, but without having felt it, I think Julie’s hair is medium-course to course. Hence, she can successfully pull off that lovely many layered, long curly hair. That is also why she can ‘NoPoo’ it with a cheap conditioner (sorry Julie, but it is!) and the hair strands hold up like little mini Herculie’s under all that build up of waxes, etc. Plus, Julie looks to have tremendous hair density (hairs growing per square inch of scalp) She’s truly got the perfect hair for that long curly look.
Not all of us have all these biological factors on one lucky little head. Sigh.
Me, my daughter, and one granddaughter (poor us) have very fine to medium-fine curly wavy hair with low density that cannot be left to grow that long. Also, too much product of any kind turns our hair into a limp, gunky, flat mess! Us skinny-haired gals must have frequent high protein deep conditionings, using a good, i.e professional, product, that’s left on for 20 min. under a plastic cap, finished off with a light moisture creme rinse, and light mousse or gel.
So learn your hair texture, plus density, plus type of curly-ness and make sure you find a hairstylist that clearly understands these factors as well. (Hey, did anyone promise you that life would be easy?) Any hairdresser worth his/her tip should be able to diagnose these things. Good Luck & God Bless.
P.S. One more thing; When your hair cutter is cutting those layers, they should be taking little, THIN sections of hair at a time, not large clumps of hair between their fingers.
They should be slow and meticulous, working around the head. Good layering can’t be rushed through.
Sharon! You are amazing!! Thank you so much for your extremely helpful comment!!!
You are right…my conditioner is cheap, my hair is medium-coarse, and it is very thick!! Spot on!
You’ve added so much value to this post and I’m going to take a picture of your comment so I can edit this post! Truly a huge help to Jillian and others navigating curly hair. Blessings to you!
Hi I have really thick curly hair which is always frizzy… I asked my hair stylist for the hair cut that u suggested and she did it and it feels so much lighter and better I just wanted to say thanks!
That is wonderful Cindy! So glad you got a better cut, and thank you for letting me know!
Julie, thanks for the specific directions on cutting curly hair. I have very thick curly hair and have been arguing with my hair stylist for 3 years. I keep asking him to cut my layers shorter and he says it’s going to make it more full. I’m getting my hair done tomorrow and I’m going to use your instructions. As far as products go, I have used most of the products listed above. The Marc Anthony strictly curls line is the best product I have found and it’s inexpensive.
Oh I hope your appointment goes well Dawn! Thank you for the product recommendation!
Hey there! I read all three of your parts to caring for curly hair, and I appreciate them all so much 🙂 I have curly hair that sits in a bun most of the time because I get so frustrated with it. This advice is awesome! Thank you!! Also, I was shocked to see your bit about Rapid City… I am a native of South Dakota and love meeting other people who know it too!! 🙂
Hi Julie,
I love all your advice about washing, styling, cutting and products for curly hair. – I have some layering in my VERY thick, medium-length curly hair, and would like to give the shorter layers a try. However I am very afraid of ending up with what I call “poodle ears”- too much bulk on the sides. Would you be so kind as to send me a contact # of a hairdresser in Scottsdale/Phoenix area that is competent in styling curly hair? Thanks