Today’s post is the last installment on how to take care of naturally curly hair and we are going to cover super curly haircuts for naturally curly hair.
In the first post, I shared some of the tools you need for caring for your curly hair, along with grocery store products that work well for curly hair
The second post was all about how to style your hair.
First, let me just say that I’ve probably seen many different hair stylists and tried to achieve a cut that was compatible with my long curly hair. I’ve had two stylists who cut my hair just right and all the others left me with a similar problem: Triangle Shaped Hair.
What is Triangle Hair?
Triangle Hair speaks to the shape of your hair when the layers are not significant enough to take the bulk of the weight off towards the bottom of your length.
This issue happens with straight hair too, but it is usually not as pronounced unless hair the straight hair is very thick or the hair is not straightened with a flat iron.
With naturally curly hair, Triangle Hair is far more prevalent in my experience. There are two reasons why I think this happens more with curly hair:
- A misconception that your curly hair needs to have the weight of your hair to tame your curls and be cut all one length.
- Natural curls will flair out some at the ends as the curls get looser from flow and movement.
Though many stylists are well-meaning. Keeping long layers (or no layers in some cases) is the biggest mistake you can make if you want a more tapered look for your curls.
The reality is you want to lighten your hair up. Here we are in the year 2023 and so many hair stylists now get the need for layers for curly hair.
How to Avoice Triangle Hair
In order to avoid triangle hair, need to get layers cut in your hair but long layers won’t do. You must insist that you want SHORT layers. In fact, I think I had long layers in this photo.
If you are going for this look of mine above, I don’t want to sway you otherwise. But if you aren’t, you must insist upon short layers.
It doesn’t really matter if you have medium or longer curly hair, my experience is that haircuts for naturally curly hair must have short layers.
I’ve had stylists TRY to give me short layers but I still got long layers.
Back when I originally posted this, it really was a challenge to get a stylist to truly give me short layers. Maybe that has changed due to social media, Curly Girl, and more understanding of curly hair.
Basic Haircut Instructions
I wish I would have captured my curly hair layers before and after when I first had my hair cut properly. Through a quick Google search, you’ll see for yourself the difference short layers make. My stylist up in Rapid City sent me these instructions for the next person who cuts my hair and I plan on quoting her exactly as follows:
“Increase layer and let the bottom drop out. Slide cutting from the top down to take out the bulk, or you can thin with shears. Top layer should be 6-7 inches long. Frame face.”
Those were her instructions on how to talk to a stylist about a long curly haircut.
If you look at the top photo (the non-triangular hair one) you’ll see that I have short layers. This is really what you want if you want to have long curly hair and be able to wear it down.
So those are the basic instructions for haircuts for curly hair.
Key Takeaway: You have to have short layers, which will lighten the weight and enhance your curls.
I’d love to hear if you have some product you love to use for your hair or if you have a tip you’d like to add, please comment below.
*UPDATE #1* I had a stylist in Fort Walton Beach, FL who did an amazing job of cutting my hair. She cut it dry and have me the short layers I need. She also said someone with naturally curly hair should NEVER have their hair thinned with thinning sheers.
Hi Julie, I just read your 3 part blog and I’m going to try the no-poo trick. I suffer from seborrheic dermatitis so I do worry about build up of dandruff without the use of a dandruff shampoo. I have tried ACV rinses before to get more shine and it makes my my scalp burn so I will try the sugar scrub. I also have used baking soda mixed with my shampoo to remove build up so I want to try that with the conditioner too. Also, I live in fort walton beach and was wondering what the name of that stylist is and if you know where to contact her. Thanks!
I will send you her information Shelby.
Hi, my names Shaylah. I’ve always hated my curly hair. If I have it down, it has to be braided or half up half down and even then it bothers me. The thing with my hair is I don’t have a load of split ends, but I used to straighten my hair a lot, and I mean a lot. But I didn’t use any heat protectant. My hair used to be really healthy with loads of ringlets and I think the heat damaged it a lot. It seems to be really poofy and the top layer of my hair never seems to form ringlets. A lot of it doesn’t define into a curl, if that makes any sense. It just poofs. Any advice on what I’d need to do to fix this?
I’m really not sure Shaylah. Could be hormone related or damaged? I have to manually twist ringlets to get some of my lazier sections of hair to conform to the curl. Have you checked out my other post at https://thenewlighterlife.com/how-to-care-for-naturally-curly-hair-part-2-of-3le-naturally-curly-hair-part-2-of-3/
I find it easier if I straighten my curly hair BEFORE I get my hair cut In short layers. It always comes out beautiful! And also I have stopped using shampoo, I use Wen, and other Co – washes that I have found that are much cheaper and I use Garnier strong spray gel..really pumps up my curls right after towel drying. 🙂
Great article! I have long, very curly and fine hair. I definitely keep short layers but I can not use treseme’ it gives me a terrible rash, the only thing I’ve been able to use is Biolage Balm, or the knock off from Sally’s when I can get it. I use the Biolage gelee’ for my gel. Yes its spendy but you don’t need a lot (of the gelee) so it lasts me almost three months. I have recently tried sea salt spray and love it! I only use it right after I gel my hair from the shower..otherwise I get the crispy hair that most of us natural curly girls hate!
I have three girls, two of which are on track to have my hair….I have sworn an oath to make sure they know how to manage the curls! I, like you, went most of my life looking like a boy or a wild amazon woman. Here’s to the next generation of curly ladies!
Thank you for the product recommendations!! I love having options! 🙂 I recently switched to Costco’s conditioner and love it so far!
Yay for little curly girls that will not suffer as we did!
Thank you Julie!!!!!! I’ve maybe had one good haircut in my life. I wrote down what your stylist said. I was doubting the thinning sheers thing, then you answered my question with what another stylist said. So it does need to be thinned with slide cutting or does it need to be thinned at all?
Thank you again!
Vanesa 🙂
Thank you Vanessa! The last person who cut my hair, did NOT thin at all. But she cut my hair dry and made sure it laid nicely. I’ve had it done both ways, (thinned or not) it really just depends. Purists will say NEVER ever thin curly hair but I’ve had it done in the past with good results. (how is that for being vague – LOL)
Every head of hair is different and every amount of curl is different. There are no ‘rules’ for haircuts for curly, or for that matter, straight hair. Things like humidity, highlighted or virgin hair, medication, your water, hormones and products you use make your hair act in very different ways. I was a stylist for 25 years and can tell you that you need to find someone who can understand your hair and cut it for your face shape and amount of work you want to put into it.
You are right eILEEN, there are MANY factors to consider in determining the care and style of cut for ANY hair. However I don’t think we need to overcomplicate the matter either. 🙂 While what you say is true about finding someone who understands your hair, I believe that you understand your own hair far better than any stylist. I’ve also found that not many stylists are skilled with curly hair, just my experience and hundreds of readers who’ve emailed me and commented.
But thank you for your comment. This is not meant to be a one size fits all post but rather a starting point for those who are struggling with their natural curls.
Julie,
After over 50 years of shiny, sleek absolutely straight hair I suddenly found myself the owner of naturally curly hair! (What the heck right?) I didn’t have a clue what to do with it. A lot of reading and asking perfect strangers with great curls got me halfway there. My hair was a little better and less frizzy but I still had serious triangle hair!
Just two week before reading your post, I had driven a 5 hour round trip to my nearest big city for a “good haircut” at a well known salon but I was still not happy at all and seriously frustrated. I was about to give in to age and cut off all the length that my husband loved when in one last ditch effort for an answer I hit Pinterest and found your post. You were so convincing that I took the 5 hour drive again, this time insisting on short layers.
I LOVE IT! Short layers is exactly what I was looking for!! It was the final piece to the puzzle for really pretty, well-behaved, bouncy, soft, natural curls! Listen to her ladies–SHORT LAYERS! (That and DON’T touch it AT ALL while it dries–tough for a girl who spent 50 years running her fingers through her hair all the time and brushing it 15 times a day!)
Thanks so so very much Julie for taking the time to write your posts on the care and feeding of naturally curly hair. Even the photos made a difference! (I showed them to my stylist) Now I actually love my new curls and am very much looking forward to the second half of my life, this time around as a curly girl! You put a huge smile on my face again! Thank you thank you!!!
Thank you!!! Your comment brightened my day! I’m so very grateful you got the cut you were looking for and I got to be a part of it!!
Thanks for all the info. My stylist always told me long layers!!!!! I am inspired and takin the plunge for short layers ASAP!!!!!! I have long thick curly hair. Excited to see the difference.
Would love to hear how your haircut turns out.
I love the curly-crowdsourcing going on here. So true about short layers. I’ve been using Curls Rock + Biolage Gelee for years and am a big fan. Does anyone know a curl-friendly stylist in the Kansas City area?
Thank you for this blog. Finally…a solution to the triangle. 🙂 I’m going to try the short layers as I’ve tried long and still ended up with the triangle.
Does anyone know a curly hair expert stylist in Austin, TX
Thank you for the tips. I always went with the longer layers because I need to be able to put hair up. Due to triangle head I end up always wearing the pony tail:( I do stay away from the thinning sheers and have to pay attention or stylist will thin away, that makes the frizz worse.
I would love to find a stylist here in FWB/Pensacola area that is comfortable and knowledgable with naturally “frizzy” hair. I did the Brazilian blowout the first yr in FL, then the Keratin treatment (not as impressed), & this yr I had a hard time finding someone in area to do Brazilian blowout.
I would love to embrace my curls and go without the time it takes to either straighten my hair or do a pony tail with wispy wings.
Hi Debbie, I just put UPDATE #2 at the bottom of the post with my stylist, Danna’s information. Danna is so talented and I’m sure you’ll love her!
I have used Danna! She is amazing!!