How Are Those Painted Countertops Holding Up?

Funny you should ask.  They have seen better days.

I hate to be Debbie Downer but I have to retract my recommendation of the Giani Granite Countertop paint.

After less than 6 months of use, the top sealing coat is wearing away.  Because of this, the paint is peeling and chipping.Continue Reading

How To Replace RV Flooring With a Raised Slide

How did we replace our RV flooring?  That is a question we’ve received multiple times concerning our RV Remodel.

For materials, we scoured the internet and found that most RVers recommend a vinyl flooring sold by Home Depot, Allure Trafficmaster plank flooring to be exact.

We did quite a bit of reading about the product and started to find alarming reviews, like here and here and here.  There were a variety of issues but the most common seemed to be surrounding Home Depot’s lack of customer support for the product and how stinky the flooring was once installed (off-gasing).

Some people said it took months for the smell to go away and that was with open windows.  Since this remodel was done late in the winter, airing wasn’t an option and we sure didn’t have a few months for it to finish off-gasing before we lived in it.


The more we read, the more we became concerned. In the end we decided to NOT install Allure.

Now in all fairness, I KNOW many RVers use this flooring and have no issues whatsoever.  But we didn’t want to be one of the ones that got a bad batch.

We then looked to our local Lowe’s to see if they had a similar flooring that was not prone to off-gasing issues.  They had something similar, yes, but did it off-gas?  It was possible and we weren’t taking any chances so we settled on the most afforable option out there.  Mark installed sheet vinyl.

Is it stylin’ and amazing?!  No. but it serves it’s purpose only cost us about $300 to do our entire camper.  4 months later, we’re very pleased with the flooring.  It’s held up well and if for some reason we need to do anything to the subfloor, we can pull up the vinyl and place it back down.  Easy peasy.

Replace RV Flooring on a Raised Slide

Replace RV Flooring on a Raised Slide

Our 96′ Winnie has one large slide over the dining and living area.  Because of the year, it is a raised slide and sits about 3 inches higher, (see crappy picture below).

So how do we properly replace the RV flooring on the slide.

When Mark demo’d the camper he took out the booth dinette and couch and ripped out the carpet in the slide area.  We were a bit apprehensive about dealing with a raised slide but after the fact, Mark would tell you it was very easy to do.

Sheet Vinyl Installed - Replace RV Flooring

Once all the carpet and staples were removed, he simply laid the vinyl down and trimmed it with wood against the wall and screwed in a metal transition strip along the top at the front of the slide and in the doorways between the bathroom and bedroom.

He had to deal with the front of the slide, which was originally covered with carpet. (see crappy picture below)

How to Replace RV Flooring on a Raised SlideTo cover the front, he bought 1/2″ X 3″ trim boards to cover the 13 feet of length of the slide.

Our son, Eli, was employed in the sanding of the board and Mark stained the wood a dark color.

Mark wanted to make sure the slide was sealed so he installed 3/4″ weather stripping all along the slide first.  It was screwed right to that metal strip you can in the picture below.  This is the type of weather stripping that is used on garage doors.


After the stripping was attached, he screwed on the sanded and stained trim board and lastly the metal transition strip was attached to the top outer edge of the slide (and overlaps the front wood trim slightly.


The Snag

So this all worked great and looked awesome.  But after taking the slide in and putting it back out we ran into a problem, the front corner of the wood trim snagged the vinyl.  It snagged it good.



Rather than replace the entire sheet of vinyl, Mark cut out the offending area which was a 1 1/2 foot by 3 1/2 foot area.  He cut some fresh vinyl from the scraps we had and tacked it down with 2-sided carpeting tape.


In the picture, it is obvious.  But if we didn’t point out to you in the camper, you’d likely  never notice the patch job.

To stop the slide from snagging the vinyl again, Mark trimmed about 1/2″ down the length of the front trim pieces

The  Stairwell

The stairwell was previously completely covered in carpet.  In order to get all the adhesive off of the stairs, he had to spray a product (similar to Goo-Gone) and scrap the glue off.


The walls of the stairwell were painted with an oil-based paint since the material was metal



Lastly, he placed vinyl on the top of each step and trimmed the edges with a metal transition strip.

That open step is where the batteries are housed.  Once the cover is on, you can see the vinyl on those 2 stairs.

The picture below shows the trim that Mark placed around the outside walls where the vinyl was placed.

And here is a closeup of the finished stairs with all the transition strips in place.

finished-stepsUp until this writing, I’ve not convinced Mark to remove the cab carpeting and recover the doghouse (the engine cover between the 2 front seats).  Truth be told, we don’t even notice the old upholstery/carpet.  Hardly.

Maybe someday, but for now our flooring is complete.

Until next time,

Updating RV Counters With Giani Granite Countertop Paint

*UPDATE* After several months of use, I have to take back my recommendation of this product.  Please click here for what our counters look like now.


After we did the transformation of the cabinets with Nuvo’s cabinet paint it was painfully obvious that I needed to update the countertops.

In all honesty, I hadn’t even considered the counters when I chose to do the cabinets in Platinum White.

But as you can below, the counters looked dingy next to the updated cabinets.



So I contacted Giani Granite, which is the same makers of Nuvo Cabinet Paint, and they agreed to send me a kit to update our countertops.  I decided on Bombay Black for the countertop color.

I got my kit in the mail and was happy to see it came with a practice sheet of paper.


I used wrapping paper and lots of painter’s tape to protect area around the countertop.

There was a little bit of prep work such as sanding and removing the plastic trim around the base of the countertop.






I also needed to apply wood filler to the nicked areas of existing counter, which was mostly around the sink cutout.


I applied my primer coat (which had amazing coverage).  I decided to do the dining room table because we had more than enough primer to complete the job.




While the primer was drying, I used my practice piece of paper to try the sponging method.  Now keep in mind, I’m no artist.  I watched the application video, which was very helpful, but I still felt intimidated.  I’ve never done any type of faux painting but I plunged ahead.

Once the primer had dried the appropriate time, I started sponging on my colors.  It went very well I think.  It was hard to visualize the end product and I just kept sponging more colors on.  I didn’t want to have a uniform color so I had to go back and forth with colors a bit.





As you can see, someone took the paper down too quickly and the wall got messed up.countertop-paint-in-bathroom


I sanded the counters after the paint had dried but before I applied the clear top coat.



Above is a closeup of the countertop after 2 top coats were applied.  The top coats really seem to meld the colors together and make it look more finished.

I’m very happy with how it turned out!  I made mistakes with applying color and noticed them later but everyone I showed the “mistakes” to didn’t notice them.  My mistakes consisted of drops around the edges and splatters of paint.

As far as wear and tear, the paint has held up very well.  You do want to make sure water does not rest on the countertops.  I noticed that when it does rest, it bubbles slightly and has to dry out to go back to a smooth finish.

Would I do the countertop paint again?  Absolutely.  It was quick and it made such a difference in the look of the camper.  I’m very happy with it!  Since we have leftover paint, we can always touch up the paint if need be (we tend to be hard on countertops).






















RV Window Treatments

Continuing with the remodel posts, today’s post is all about the window treatment.

Main Living Area Windows

When Mark demo’d the camper, he threw out all the old cornice boxes.  They were dated and we didn’t want to recover them.  Instead, we decided that we’d reuse the privacy blinds and I’d sew new curtains throughout.

One of my best friends went with me to Hobby Lobby and helped me pick out the perfect fabric for the camper curtains.  I wanted a fabric that would allow us different color options.  I didn’t want it to be drab or boring.  I also didn’t want it to be an eye-sore.  We settled on this.


I love that it has an array of colors.  Gray, brown, lime green, mustard yellow, seafoam green, fuschia.

I CANNOT say that Mark loves my choice.  I think he used the word “girly” and accused me of trying to feminize him.

Oh well.

Since I love him, I wanted him to be happy with the camper.  I made a few adjustments and added a gray panel to the top of the curtains.  I hoped it would help.

Curtain Hardware

But before I go into the curtains, lets talk about the curtain hardware.

I saw this pin on Pinterest about how you can make cheap curtain rods.


I went with it because I loved the look.  Now in all fairness, I didn’t do it exactly as the website suggested. I bought some beautiful drawer pulls from Hobby Lobby for 50% off.  Dowels would come from the hardware store but I found that I’d have to buy hardware to attach the curtain rod dowel to the wall. That pesky hardware drove my cost up per window and turned out to be the straw that broke the camel’s back.

For the each window, the price broke down as follows:

$2 – for the Dowel (average)
$3 – for 2 Drawer Pulls
$3.80 for Hardware to Attach Curtain to Wall

$8.80 Total/Window

Now that may not seem like a lot but when you consider that we have 8 windows. It adds up to $70.  I was even willing to pay that price because those drawer pulls were gorgeous.  My MORE frugal husband put the brakes on and said that was not worth it.  So I bought these cheap curtain rods for $3 to $4 a piece (depending on the length).


So it cost me just $28 for our (initial) curtain hardware.  Initial means I’ll go into that later.

Curtain Design

First, let’s go back to the curtain design.  I have to tell you about this VERY cool blog, Ana White.  She has a tutorial up about how to make hidden tab top curtains.  I loved the look of her curtains!  So clean and a simple way to sew in hidden tabs.  The design makes it so the fabric is not bunchy at the top. (I may sound slightly picky) I decided that was exactly how I wanted my curtains to be and I pressed ahead on making them according to her tutorial.

As I mentioned earlier, I tried to tame down some of the wild colors of my main fabric and appease Mark by adding a gray panel to the tops of the curtains. They were a little more work, but I was sure the results would be worth it.

The problem was, I hadn’t considered the fact that the privacy blinds would be visible when the curtains were open.  Once we got the first curtain up, I realized it would not do.

rv-privacy-blind privacy-blind-visible

Bummer!!  I really didn’t want to have to put a valance up and I wanted the benefits of the hidden tabs. I just couldn’t stomach seeing the privacy blinds all day long when the curtains were open.


So I made valances, not my first choice obviously but I’m happy with them today.  I used the same gray color that was at the top of the fabric and my valance hangs down about 7 inches.

But now we had a problem with the cheaper curtain hardware we had bought.

The valance would need to go on the cheap curtain rod and we needed something for the curtain panels.

Hidden Bungee Rod

Hello Pinterest!

I found this pin that talks about using a bungee cord for making a curtain rod behind a regular curtain rod.


The pin actually links to some expensive curtain rod, but the description is all we needed.

So Mark went out and got about $16 worth of bungee cords.  We got them about 5 or 6 inches shorter than the curtain rod so there would be enough tension to hold the curtain up and snug.

But we found that the bungee cords did not stay on the ends, instead they slid along the curtain rod like this…


Our fix?  Screw in a self-drilling screw to the end of the rod so the bungee cord can hook to the screw and not slip.


Here is another view of a self drilling screw tip for those of you who may be as unfamiliar as I was.

self-drilling-screws-bungee-cord-curtainHere is a snippet of the before…

old-cornace-for-96-winnebago-adventurer(Oh how I wish I had taken better before pictures but you can’t really undo a renovation) And after pictures are here…


I do like how the hidden tabs make the curtains lay underneath the valances due to the hidden tabs.  In a regular stick built home, I do the same tutorial in a heartbeat.

Front Window Curtains

So that covers our main window treatments but we still needed to update the front window curtains.

The original fabric before was like a seafoam/blueish embossed rose color.


I decided to layer a chevron fabric onto the existing curtains because I wanted the added insulation and didn’t want to have to reinvent the wheel in this area.

I’ll tell you that I laughed at the person who sewed the original RV curtains. Yep, I did. I thought maybe they had a rough night or they got trained on the particular curtains that went into our RV. Pride. You know what they say, pride comes before the fall, (which I’ll go into in a bit).  The curtains were sewed so sloppy and they were a mess when it actually came to taking off the curtain hardware.

The hardware I’m talking about is the glide tape.  I really couldn’t work with the existing glide tape because the plastic was cracked, brittle, and falling apart. I had actually hoped I could glue it and patch the glide tape but it quickly became apparent that it wasn’t possible so I got out my seam ripper and went to town to remove the tape and rig something up.

damaged-glide-tape-for-rv-window-treatmentsSince it was so old and hard to remove, I wasn’t able to salvage it.  I ended up ripping the glide tape off.


I ordered 3 packs of 72 inch glide tape from Amazon. The 2 curtain panels measure 86 inches each.  So we needed to use part of a 3rd glide tape for each of the panels.

After I pieced my chevron fabric together to get it wide enough I sewed the panels to the top and sides of the existing curtains.

Next I sewed on the first 72″ strip of glide tape and then I started at the opposite end of the curtain top and sewed the other glide tape on (going towards the direction of the already attached tape).  I did this to make sure the bracket was positioned near the edge of the curtain and it wouldn’t sag at the end.

So this is the part where I describe my fall after pride. Sewing on the glide tape was comical. For the life of me I couldn’t keep it straight.  There is really no way to pin it to the curtain since the plastic on the tape is so thick.  You just have to wing it.  I tried 3 different feet for my sewing machine and finally settled on my zipper foot.

It was tricky and it wasn’t pretty, but the glide tape was attached.  Once I hung the curtains, I pinned the bottom hem up, removed the curtain and sewed along the pinned hem.


The front curtains are busy, crazy and make me twitch.  I love chevron, but this was too much.  I’m hoping someday I’ll muster the time to add a solid panel somewhere in there.  I think that may help stop the motion sickness when the curtains are closed at night.  But during the day, they don’t look half bad.

So here is the before and after of the front curtains.

96-winnebago-adventurer-rv-window-curtains-before 96-Winnebago-Window-Treatments-After

Curtain tie backs were added later to keep the curtains contained.

Now I have one last thing to show you about window coverings.

Fabric Covered Roller-Blind

We have a roller-blind at our door and it was just a plain white plastic.  I know I sound slightly obsessed with Pinterest, but this time, it failed me.


When I covered my roller-blind, I ruined it.  The Pin above is for instructions on how you use hot glue to adhere the roller-blind to the fabric.  Nope, that doesn’t work.  The glue is too thick and it makes it so the blind will not actually retract due to the bulk

I had to take as much glue off as I could and remove the fabric.  Since I put most of the hot glue on the edges, I actually had to trim the roller-blind edges away.  The only way I could find to adhere the fabric effectively was by using this spray adhesive.


And here is the after of the roller-blind when it is down.


The reason why I have a green trim on my edges is because I was using fabric scraps.  So I just sewed trim on both edges of my chevron piece to make it wide enough.  I centered the blind over the fabric and voilà.  A fabric covered roller-blind.  The fabric is bunchy and I’m not happy with it.  Basically this just so show you how this doesn’t work.  Someday I’ll figure it out.  But for now, it works fairly well.

When the blind is rolled up, it tends to get lopsided like this…


We have to readjust the blind by tugging it when it’s rolled up.


Kid’s Bunkroom Curtains

One area I haven’t addressed is the kid’s bunkroom.  Honestly, I don’t like the curtains in there.  I could go on an on about why I don’t like the curtains but just trust me, it’s not worth sharing.

I may redo the curtains in there, but for now they do the job and the room is fairly dark, (I did use blackout fabric).  Since that was the goal, mission accomplished.

So that’s it on our window coverings.  Our friends call us hippy or gypsy-ish.  I have to agree, it has that feel.

If I ever get tired of the curtains, I’ll go with more neutral curtain fabric.  I still love that it gives us decorating options with all the colors and you know, we are sorta gypsy-ish.







How to Make Fitted Sheets From a Flat

I don’t know about you, but my kids refuse to use a flat sheet. I’ve tried off and on since they were about 2, but the flat sheet always ended up wedged to the foot end of the bed. So we only use a fitted sheet for their beds.

Kids will be kids. It’s always nice to have an extra sheet or 3. Today I’m going to share with you how I sew my own fitted sheets from a flat (or a piece of fabric).

This really came in handy when we made the custom bunks for the Winnie.  Since all 4 beds were odd sizes, I needed to custom fit all the sheets or deal with tucking lots of extra fabric under.  I hate tucking and readjusting sheets.  A mama’s got enough to do in my humble opinion.

Back to my fitted sheets…

My big kid’s mattress tops measure 27″ X 57″.  The mattress thickness is 4 inches.  You need to know all these measurements specifically for your own bed to fit the sheets properly.  I don’t want to get hate mail because you followed my measurements.  That and I doubt anyone has the same size bunks that we do.  We like to be different.

But given my bed size example, here is how you figure out the size of your fitted sheet.

Width of Sheet

  27 (width of the mattress)
8 (thickness of the mattress multiplied by 2)
+ 4 (for hem and overhang )
 39 inches

Length of Sheet

  57 (length of mattress)
   8 (thickness of mattress multiplied by 2)
+ 4 (for hem and overhang)
 69 inches

So you’ll want to take fabric or cut your sheets to the measurement that you find you need for your particular bed.

Cut Out Corners

Next you need to cut out notches so you can make your corners.  As I said, I have a 4 inch thick mattress and I have allowed for 2 extra inches on each side for the hem and under tuck (if that’s a word).  So I cut out a 6 inch square from each of the 4 corners of the piece of fabric.


Time to Hem

Now is the easiest time to hem your sheet. I tend to sew like a mad woman and go as fast as my machine will allow. I don’t want to have to fuss with any corners which is why I recommend sewing the corners together AFTER you have hemmed the edges.

I fold over my hem 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ and sew along the edge. I loathe pinning and have an dislike for the iron so I just do this turning under by hand as I go along with the sewing machine. It doesn’t need to be perfect.


Sew the Corners


Corners need to be sewed together next.  Simply line those cut out corners that are missing the 6″ squares and sew a 1/4″ seam from the point down to the edge.  Now you have a nifty corner for your sheet.


Attaching Elastic

In order to get the sheet to fit around your mattress, you need to attach elastic to the edge.

On the top of the sheet I start on the left side about 8 or 9 inches from my corner seam and zig sag stitch a 1/4″ piece of elastic to the edge.  Once I’ve got the elastic attached with a couple of stitches at the beginning, I pull that elastic VERY tight as I let the machine pull the hem of the sheet through.  You just want the elastic pulled tight so it will scrunch the fabric and give you fitted corners.

I do the top of the sheet as one big strip and finish about 8 or 9 inches on the other side of the right corner.


And that is it.  So easy and it makes making beds a breeze.


I’d estimate that one sheet takes less than 10 minutes to sew custom fitted sheets from start to finish.  Worth the time in my book!




How to Refinish an Ugly Booth Dinette

2 years ago, we were looking at buying a used pop-up camper.

No, we weren’t going to live in it…though we may just do that someday.  I put almost nothing past us.

We looked at older ones, and the price was right. One thing we noticed about older pop-ups was that all the upholstery was ugly, nasty, or dirty.  With zero hesitation, I told Mark that I could recover them.  “It will be easy!!”  He wasn’t sold.  But I’m sure I told him over half a dozen times with the confidence of a lion, I could do it.

We did end up getting a used pop-up but it was newer and the upholstery wasn’t anything either of us felt like we needed to change.

Fast forward to buying this Winnie.  Once again, Mrs. Confident reared her ugly head.  I said I could do it.  “It will be easy!!”

Only this time, we both wanted it done.  So I did what any person with zero experience recovering cushions would do.  I bought a bunch of fabric without taking any measurements and set to deconstructing the existing cushions.  -maybe you can see where I’m going here.

I got about 1/32th through taking the cushion cover apart and I realized it was no fun.  I also had to make 2 more trips to the fabric store to get the additional fabric that I needed after I actually measured the cushions.

Here is the best before and after I have of the booth.


And here…


What a stinky picture, but I’m including it because you can most of the dinette in it.

Now I’m going to tell you how I did it.

1.  Measure.

The first thing to do is measure the width of your cushion. I’m hard-headed which is why I did not do this right away.  Save yourself the headache and extra trips to the fabric store.  Measure.

Just so you know, upholstery fabric comes in 54″ widths so it’s not necessary for you to measure the length of the cushion.  A fabric bolt width will more than cover that length.

My cushion width measured 23 1/2″ for the seat part and 14″ for the widest portion of the back part.  The depth of all the cushions was 4″.


So here is a breakdown of the measurements of my cushion.

Bottom Seat Cushion
 23.5″ – length
    4″   – depth
 23.5″ – length
+ 4″    – depth
  55″ fabric for each bottom seat cushion
You will multiply this by 2 for the two cushions.

Back Seat Cushion

  14″ – length
    4″ – depth
  14″ – length
+ 4″ – depth
 36″ fabric for each back seat cushion

You will multiply this by 2 for the two cushions.

End Caps

Next measurement to contend with is the end cap portions.  If you have a directional patterned fabric like I did, you will need to get more yardage.  My ends are 23 1/2″ X 4″ for the seat part and 9″ X 4″ for the back part.

I had enough to piece the shorter back part end caps from leftover fabric.  I needed to buy 4 more inches of the fabric for each seat end cap.  2 end caps were cut from one 4″ wide strip of the 54″ bolt.

Now some of you seamstresses might be wondering what about my seam allowances.  I found that if I wanted the cover to be snug and not loose, I needed to not cut for a seam allowance.  I did sew a 1/4-inch seam instead of the standard 3/8th inch seam.

So the total amount of fabric I needed for my particular booth was 186 inches.  For safety sake, I’d round up to 6 yards.

2.  Cut The Fabric

Now for cutting.  I decided to use each cushion as a pattern piece.  I laid the cushion down on the fabric and cut around it.  My fabric was dark but if you have a lighter fabric, you could trace around the cushion and then cut out your fabric.

For the 4-inch widths, I cut them with my rotary cutter.

3.  Sew It Up

Now you’re going to sew the pieces together.  As I mentioned earlier, I used a 1/4″ seam allowance to have a snug fit.  You can always make your seam wider if the cover is lose.

Below is a diagram that will hopefully help you see what I did.

The first is the back part of the dinette.  Mine was curved and not as angular as the diagram.


This is the seat part of the cushion.  Same basic instructions as the one above.  Sewing-cushion-pieces-together

Just make sure you don’t sew them all together to make one continuous piece of fabric.  You need to leave the 2 end sides open, so you can put a zipper in.  You are most definitely going to want to put a zipper in the cushion.

Now don’t abandon me yet! Before this project, I had never sewn a zipper.  Ever.  I was actually pretty terrified of zippers. Irrational fears of zippers, that’s a new one.

Because of my phobia, I tried to use velcro on one of the cushions.  It didn’t work very well. I found that they puckered and were bunchy.  I decided to repurpose the zippers that were on the orginal cushions.  So I busted out my seam ripper and took them out.

And true to my way of doing things I’ve never done before, I barrelled ahead without watching a single video or tutorial on how to install a zipper.

If you’re the video DIY kinda person, here’s a great one for you to watch.

As good as this video is, I found that some of her steps were unnecessary. I didn’t use tape. I didn’t baste anything. I just kinda winged it.

I simply tucked the seam allowance under and top stitched the zipper on with my zipper foot. It worked great and I had no problems with it.

You can see below, the right side of the fabric is on top and the seam is tucked under.  I ran the zipper along and kept everthing aligned.


But since I like variety, I switched it up. On another zipper I turned the zipper upside down and didn’t tuck under the seam allowance.  Instead I sewed along the zipper and when fully open, the seam allowance and edge was clean and neat.


Both ways worked wonderfully and I was very happy with the results.

Basically, you should just know that I didn’t follow a bunch of fussy steps, it’s really so easy.  And since I wasn’t sewing a dress, I think the zipper is pretty forgiving.

One last thing about the upholstery zipper.  Mine had a fabric stop sewn in for both ends of the zipper instead of built-in metal stops.  I had to zig zag stitch those fabric stops onto both ends of my zipper so that my pull didn’t slide off all the way or split open at the beginning.  Yes, foolishly, I tried to do with out the stops.


And here is a view of the completed zipper on one of the cushions.


The last thing you need to sew on is your end cap pieces since you now have 4 large tubes with the zippers sewn in.

Keep the tubes wrong side out and then pin them on with the right sides together.  Simple sew all the way around the rectangular end caps to complete your cushion cover.

Once you’re done, unzip them if needed and turn them right side out.  Now just put your foam cushion inside each one of the covers and zip them up.

If the fabric is a little loose, it’s no big deal. Just take the cushion cover off and sew a little wider seam throughout.  The cushion is very forgiving on not-so-perfect sewing.

4.  Recover the Trim


We decided to contrast our trim pieces with a black fabric. The trim needs to be unscrewed and recovered.  I didn’t even bother taking off the old worn upholstery, I just laid the trim on the new fabric, cut and stapled it.


As I went along I punctured holes where we would need to reattach the hardware for the actual bench.

Here is a view of the hardware that is attached to the booth.


We also painted the fake wood, table, & replaced the drawer pulls to finish off the dinette area.

One final view of the finished project.


I’ll just close by saying, that underneath my over-confident exterior, I was pretty nervous about doing this project.  But if I can do it, you can do.




How We Painted Our Cabinets Without Fuss

When we bought our Winnie, she was full of old light oak cabinets and a lot of fake wood panelling.



Even the fridge had paneling.


I’m not a big fan of light oak or fake wood paneling, so I urged Mark to paint the cabinets.  Continue Reading